The preservation of Lunggi weaving is not the responsibility of individuals alone — it is the result of collective synergy among weaver communities, organizations like Gemawan, local government, and various supporting programs.
In the Sambas Regency of West Kalimantan lies a cultural legacy that has lived for more than three centuries — the Lunggi woven cloth, also known as the Sambas gold weave. More than just a textile, Lunggi weaving represents identity, artistry, and the enduring struggle of Sambas women to preserve their ancestral heritage amid the tides of modernization.
The art of Lunggi weaving dates back to the Sambas Sultanate, during the reign of Sultan Muhammad Tsjafioeddin I, around three hundred years ago. The fabric is renowned for its motifs inspired by nature and the cosmos — landscapes, celestial objects, animals, and plants — with the pucuk rebung (bamboo shoot) motif standing as its signature. The golden threads woven into each pattern add both opulence and intricate beauty, making the cloth a timeless symbol of elegance and craftsmanship.
Creating a Lunggi weave requires patience, precision, and artistry. Each piece can take weeks or even months to complete, depending on the complexity of the design. The main centers of production are found across several villages in Sambas and Sajad Subdistricts, including Jagur, Tanjung Mekar, Sumber Harapan, Jirak, and Tengguli.
Guardians of Tradition and Social Innovators
The women of Sambas are the soul of the Lunggi weaving tradition. They are not only artisans but also cultural custodians and lifelong learners. Among them is Budiana, an inspiring figure who has devoted over 30 years to Lunggi weaving. Starting as a daily wage weaver, she eventually acquired her own loom and built her independent business.
Together with other women weavers, Budiana ensures the transmission of traditional skills by teaching younger generations — their children, nieces, and apprentices — through hands-on mentorship. Their innovations extend beyond the loom: they have adopted eco-friendly natural dyes, thanks to training and support from organizations like Gemawan and the SwitchAsia program since 2013.
Resilience and Lifelong Learning Strategies
Sambas women face numerous challenges — from competition with industrial textile production to the declining number of young weavers. Yet their commitment to keeping Lunggi weaving alive remains unwavering. They continue to learn, adapt, and innovate — exploring new designs, mastering digital marketing, and expanding their networks through social media and institutional partnerships.
This lifelong learning strategy has become the foundation for the sustainability of Lunggi weaving, not only as a cultural heritage but also as a source of women’s economic empowerment. Through continuous learning, Sambas women have turned tradition into opportunity — preserving culture while creating pathways for prosperity.
Recognition for Lunggi weaving’s uniqueness and cultural value continues to grow. The craft has been acknowledged as a world heritage, reaffirming its role as a treasure to be preserved and developed. Lunggi creations have even earned international accolades, including an award from the World Craft Council in 2014 for excellence in the use of natural dyes.
Preserving Lunggi Weaving: Weaving Synergy and Sustainability
The preservation of Lunggi weaving is not the responsibility of individuals alone — it is the result of collective synergy among weaver communities, organizations like Gemawan, local government, and various supporting programs.
For nearly a decade, Gemawan has been instrumental in helping weavers enhance their skills, adopt eco-friendly dyeing techniques, and strengthen environmental awareness. Their work has bridged traditional craftsmanship with sustainable practices, empowering women artisans to thrive.
Budiana herself has been appointed as an instructor in regional government training programs, a recognition of her role as both a pioneer and mentor among Sambas weavers.
Lunggi weaving stands as a symbol of the resilience and creativity of Sambas women in preserving their cultural heritage. Through lifelong learning, innovation, and collaboration with diverse stakeholders, they ensure that the golden threads of Lunggi continue to shine in the modern era.
This heritage not only enriches Indonesia’s cultural tapestry but also offers a powerful lesson: that tradition and modernity can coexist harmoniously, with women leading the way toward sustainable transformation.
Authors: Mohammad Reza, Gemawan Activists
Source: Lunggi Weaving and the Resilience of Sambas Women: Lifelong Learning Strategies for Safeguarding Cultural Heritage